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the roads this far west are as straight as Hef.
So I closed my eyes and put my foot down, certain that sooner
or later I would end up in my new home, the far'flung western
town of Griffith.
I had just picked up my first ever journalism job at the
local paper and was moving to a town I had never heard of
before.
Well that is apart from knowing it was home to copious paddocks
of marijuana, the birthplace of drug's campaigner Donald
McKay and a serious haunt for the local Mafia that gunned
him down in 1977 in a Griffith carpark.
I was city boy born and raised, a private school boy used
to wearing ties and playing on the concrete, and later a
beach bum with salt in my veins and a weakness for swanky
bars serving bottled Grolsch.
And now I was heading 600 kms west to the heart of the wheat
belt where cowboys ruled, utes did hot laps on the main
road each night and local hobbies revolved around jumping
on top of wild boars and stabbing them in the jugular.
What
the hell was I doing? But there are a lot of unemployed
journalists out there and I had just finished my course
and this fell in my lap so I had to go.
Truth
be told I was ready for change. A decade of partying and
living in that vicious Sydney circle where you're constantly
treading water struggling to suck in some time for your
self, spluttering for a bit more money to keep pace with
your lifestyle and clutching for a break from the frenetic
rat race had taken its toll.
But
still, Griffith? Surely a seachange would have been the
way to go considering my obsession with the ocean. And the
closest I would get to anything mariner out there would
be watching pelicans that made the long flight to the shores
of Lake Wyangan to give birth to their young.
Anyway I was going, so I drove into town and found my crappy
little motel because as yet I knew no'one and had no where
to live.
I sat on the bed with a pizza on my chest missing everyone
and thinking what the hell am I doing? Bloody good
pizza though. The Italian influence in Griffith goes well
beyond the shoeing of snitches with concrete booties.
And that was just the first of many surprises that made
my next 12 months so bloody enjoyable
I
have got to say that I have loved 'and am loving' my time
in regional Australia. Sure, I do miss people and I miss
a lot of parties and general going'ons but those people
will always be there. I am not losing contact with anyone.
It's impossible in this communicatively shrunken cyber world
we live in today.
People
in Sydney have such skewed views of your typical bushie.
A lot of them think redneck, racist, rum drinking, roo shootin'
roughies. There may be some of these creatures around but
there are crazies in every pocket of land humans inhabit.
On
the whole everyone I have met in Griffith and now Wagga
has been exceptional.
And
that's how I judge a place or a time in my life, by the
people surrounding me.
I want to live all over Australia and all over the world
precisely to meet people, to be absorbed in a community
and gravitate towards people that move you and educate you.
For me that is what life experience is, being moved outside
a comfort zone and finding people, listening to people and
talking to people.
And
in Griffith I found a town where honesty is a language and
not treated with a skeptic's cynicism like it so often can
be these days.
There are only two pubs in Griffith really so you meet a
lot of people pretty quickly and get to know them with a
lubricated familiarity in a matter of weeks. And the first
thing that struck me was the absolute maskless honesty and
open demeanor of every greeting you get, of every conversation
you have. Friendships are forged after you buy another man
one beer and last well after the pint is drained.
There are no egos to contend with, no sets that think they
are above others. Jackaroos drink with suits, 50'year'olds
party with 20 year olds, no one has barriers up and no one
judges anyone. People just get on and enjoy each other's
company unlike anywhere I have ever been in my life. And
I think that holds true for much of regional Australia.
I
made friends with characters that I would have never met
in Sydney and some of them would not have even been allowed
inside the pubs I used to frequent there.
One
guy I'll quickly mention, who I doubt I will see again but
was someone I got on well with each time I saw him, after
the initial scare was a 140kg Fijian called Jimmy.
My
first contact with this mass of man was on a supporter's
bus heading to Wagga to watch the rugby union grand final
that Griffith was trying to win for the second year running.
I was reporting on the game but caught the bus over with
the fans and sadly could not take part in the beer drinking
frivolity that was loudly taking place up the back.
I knew everyone on the bus except for one fellow sitting
on a front seat that looked more like a foot stool than
a chair when Jimmy's considerable bulk swallowed it.
My
mate Henry and I remarked that we had never seen this dude
before and yes, he was absolutely massive.
We stopped just out of Wagga so the party boys could grab
a leak, another case of beer and another pack of cigarettes.
Jimmy got off the bus and at that moment the team manager
turned around to inform those of us that did not know the
big man about his past and he said:
"I
don't mean to scare any of you guys but Jimmy has just escaped
from a mental institute in Wagga. He used to play for Griffith
and found out they were in the final and ran away thinking
the team would let him have a jersey today. He does have
some serious problems so no one startle him. He can be pretty
entertaining though."
Are
you frickin serious? Me and Henry looked at each other and
then faced front motionless, trying not to meet his eye
and sure that he was whispering in the bus drivers ear that
he would let him live if only he pulled the bus over to
the side of the road and left the rest of the passengers
to him.
Then at our next stop along the way Jimmy got off again
and another young Fijian kid turned around with an alarmed
look on his face and with a voice wavering on the verge
of hysteria exclaimed to the rest of us that "If Griffith
win today there is no bloody way I am getting back on this
bus with Jimmy, who knows what he'll do."
We
got there, Griffith won and I got a lift home with a mate.
But that night I saw Jimmy at the club with all the footy
boys and went up to have a chat. As I was introduced to
the big man with the crazy look in his eyes he charged at
me, grabbed me, picked me up and almost squeezed the life
out of me with the friendliest bear hug I had ever been
in. He was laughing the whole time and I spent the rest
of the night with him freaking people out by telling them
I was going to sic Jimmy onto them. He would then glare
at them before bursting out in laughter.
I
saw him again recently at a house party, in fact at the
house I used to live in and was a bit surprised. We had
a thumper of a night and again we spent the evening in hysterics
as I tried to wrestle him and he swatted me off like a pesky
fly.
The next morning after everyone had left the party we walked
down stairs and into the lounge room to see Jimmy and his
mate on the couches in the semi dark. The mate was sitting
upright and snoring like the possessed, but Jimmy was sitting
there with a bong at his feet silent, just staring at the
wall his eyes wide open. He turned around as we walked in,
smiled goofily and returned to his spot on the wall. It
was pretty creepy but his heart was good.
Another one of the best friends I made in Griffith was a
guy called Ben. Ben liked, nay loved piggin'. And
I am not talking shooting boars, I am talking setting dogs
onto them and then jumping off the ute and stabbing and
killing them. They are considered monsters in the bush because
they do destroy the land but I could still never make myself
go on one of his trips. He had two pig dogs that he loved
more than anyone in the world, I think. In fact, when Ben
brought a nice young lady home after a night at the pub
he excitedly asked her if she would like to take the swag
out the back with him and sleep with the dogs. Ben got no
loving that night. They seriously looked like those two
devil dogs that come to life in the original Ghostbusters.
You are probably picturing a big burly, four'day growth,
fightin' and cussin' maniac but Ben was the absolute opposite
of that.
He was the kindest most compassionate and friendly person
I met the whole time I was away. He wouldn't hurt a fly,
only boars. I never heard him say bad word about anyone
the whole year I was there.
And
that's what it's all about. Meeting people you would normally
otherwise never meet and in Griffith that's all I did. In
the one year I was there I made life'long friends from all
walks of life. I met quite seriously some of the greatest
and most interesting people I have ever come across in my
27 years in Australia and traveling overseas. Eighteen months
ago if you had said I was going to live in Griffith I would
have laughed in your face. Now I can't imagine having done
anything else.
There
is so much more I could go on with, but just briefly another
beautiful aspect of regional Australia worth mentioning
is that real characters still permeate the streets and pubs
and shops. Eccentricity may not be openly encouraged, but
it is allowed to thrive, it's not beaten down by fear and
discrimination and these people add colour to a town like
nothing else can.
One
quick man of colour we dubbed "The Roaring Man".
Now
this guy would not be allowed in any pub in Sydney, the
toffee nosed steroid munching bouncers would turf him out
as he approached the entrance but here he was allowed to
roam free.
My first encounter with roaring man was on a Thursday arvo
after work when a few of us were having a couple of beers
at the pub. In walked this guy with a wild bushy beard,
a bedraggled old suit and that shuffle step eyes'down gait
that a number of alcoholics possess. He moved around relatively
unaware of everyone around him but obviously well known
as no one paid him much attention. He spoke to no one, just
ordered his beer.
After a couple drinks, a table of jackaroos were having
a bit of a laugh talking to him and all of a sudden from
this tiny scraggly little man comes the most almighty
guttural roar. It nearly blew all of us off our chairs
as we turned to see this withered old thing half hunched
over, hands by his side roaring to the loud cheers of
the boys. Only then did he glance quickly up with a tiny
cheeky grin on his face before returning to his beer.
It was only after a couple more beers and a few more random
roars that the staff told him to quieten down. But there
were no patronizing comments, no evil stares, no cutting
words behind his back. The roaring man was there and that
was fine with everyone.
Later
we did see the great man leave in quite a quandary. In
one hand he had a helmet, the other a six pack and as
he walked outside his drowned brain could not quite comprehend
how to get onto his bike with no spare hands.
At first the helmet ended up on the ground, then the bike
but never the six pack. After a coupe of minutes with
us all watching he decided the best option was to place
the helmet on his head, carry the beer and wheel the bike
all the way home.
These
people give a town its flavour, they are the spices that
add to it, the colour on top of the canvas and sadly they
seem to be swept into the cracks in big cities.
But out here they have a home and are allowed to live
their lives.
I
have loved my time so much I honestly do not see myself
ever back in Sydney. There is so much time here for yourself,
time to think and relax and read and just do the things
that city life extinguishes with busy schedules. There
is no pressure to go out, but if you want to you are guaranteed
a fun night meeting new people and strengthening new friendships
with people who are so different to you and your own upbringing.
I
doubt I will always live this far west because I miss
the ocean like a limb but time in a small town is good
for your soul and I recommend it to all.
Cam
Storey currently works as a journalist in Wagga Wagga.
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